In view of the global triumph of Cabernet and Merlot, Portugal with its 500 or so indigenous grape varieties – types that are found nowhere else in the world – remains one of the last bastions of diversity and autonomy. Although there are sporadic instances of experimentation with wine in the international style, the key emphasis of wine production in Portugal lies on the country’s own traditional grape varieties. They are cultivated in 32 regions of classified quality, some which were only recently established; 26 of these have been granted the higher D.O.C. status – “Denominaçao de Origem Controlada”.

Some of the best red wines come from the Douro valley, the home of port in the north-west of the republic. Stretching away to the east of Porto along the Douro river are arid, weather-beaten terraces cut into slate slopes on which such varieties as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa and Tinta Roriz (called Tempranillo in Spain) are grown. Touriga Nacional creates dark red wines with a fine fruitiness (blackcurrants), a complex ensemble of tastes and thick tannins. Wine made from Touriga Francesa is somewhat lighter and gentler than that of the Touriga Nacional and is outstanding for its delicate aromas and sumptuous bouquet. Tinta Roriz, which is now increasingly cultivated as a single varietal, offers an extensive range of fruity flavours (cherry, blackberry, mulberry), a deep tannin structure and a ruby red to inky violet colour.

In the Dão region north-east of Lisbon the wines pressed from Touriga Nacional grapes are full-bodied and age well. The coastal region Bairrada between Lisbon and Porto owes its name to the clay (barro) which, together with the widespread limey soil, gives the region’s wines their distinctive character. Bairrada is also home to the Baga grape, the most broadly cultivated black grape in Portugal, from which highly tannic, decidedly acidic, dark red wines with fruity bouquets are made, which also age well.

Ribatejo – quality as well as quantity
About a dozen small wine-growing districts in the eastern hinterland of Lisbon make up the Ribatejo region on the shores of the Tagus river, where the best wines are made. Until recently the wines from Portugal’s second largest wine-producing region were characterized by their consistent structure and natural complexity, but tended to lack expressive fragrance and distinctive character. However, several young viticulturists have now adopted an innovative approach, raising hopes that here too exciting things can be expected.

The south-eastern region of Alentejo, called “Portuguese California” due to its hot climate, is the flavour of the moment among wine lovers. The area produces high-end wines from international as well as native varietals – such as Tinta Roriz (here known as Aragonez), Periquita and Trincadeira – which are made by both modern and traditional methods. Unfortunately, the most interesting Portuguese wines are often exorbitantly expensive outside the country. And occasionally, when the wine’s woodiness smothers the flavours of fruit, one cannot help feeling that it has lain for too long in the barrel. For serious oenophiles Portugal is certainly worth a visit!