Richest vegetation in South Europe
Steep, jagged cliffs transition to white beaches gently descending into the ocean. At Cabo da Roca, the western-most point of the Old World, the European mainland ends 144 metres above the Atlantic. Nature shows its green abundance in the hilly interior. Due to the mild climate Sintra, the former summer residence of the Portuguese King, and the surrounding area has the richest vegetation in southern Europe. We are in Estremadura, at 60,000 hectares of vineyard area Portugal’s largest winegrowing region. Earlier referred to by the locals on Oeste (west), it extends 170 kilometres northwest of Lisbon along the Atlantic coast up to just before the time-honoured university town of Coimbra. Picturesque little seaside resorts and fishing villages nestled into countless bays with winegrowing and farming being characteristic of the inland countryside. The proximity of the Atlantic provides a pleasant coolness and enough precipitation, making it never so unbearably hot as in other regions on the Iberian peninsula.

Thomas Jefferson drank Bucelas
Estremadura is a land of collectives. An estimated 50,000 vintners, most of whom with no more than one hectare of vineyard area are characteristic of the region, making it one of the most productive in Portugal. This includes more and more ambitious smaller operations that rely on international instead of regional varietals. The region doesn’t have to be ashamed of its traditional wines – to the contrary. Thomas Jefferson drank Bucelas when he was the emissary to France from 1785 to 1789. This fresh white whine smelling of lemons and peaches is primarily pressed from Arinto grapes that grow 25 kilometres north of Lisbon in very loamy, warm soils and yet retain their acidity. Estremadura has acquired a good reputation for its fresh white wine smelling of lime. The red wines are full-bodied and are enjoying increasing popularity due to their independent character.

From the smaller region of Colares, 25 kilometres northwest of Lisbon comes a wine that is almost black and very rich in tannins – as aficionados maintain – takes as long to mature as a Bordeaux 100 years ago, but then develops wonderful aromas of black currants. It is made from Ramisco grapes that grow directly along the seaside on wind-swept sand dunes. Because the Relaus avoids sand, all vines are from the original roots and have never been grafted. The gnarly old branches are reminiscent of driftwood and bear small bunches of intensively blue, thick-skinned grapes.

One of French Sun King Louis XIV’s favourite wines
Across from Lisbon, between the estuary of the Tejo and Sado rivers, lies the Setubal Peninsula, graced with DOC status since 1907. In former times Setubal could only be accessed from the capital city by ferry or via a detour of some 180 kilometres. Today two bridges over the Tejo make getting there much easier. Clay and limestone hills cooled by the Atlantic wind and fertile, warm sandy plains inland are characteristic of the scenery and the most famous wine of this small region: Moscatel de Setúbal was one of French Sun King Louis XIV’s favourite wines. The wine cellar books in Versailles document this even today. It is a full, dense, amber or orange coloured dessert wine from the Muscat d’Alexandrie varietal, once brought to the country by the Phoenicians. After many years of barrel maturation it unfolds a seductive scent of raisins, rose petals, elderflowers and orange peels. The secret lies in the special way it is made with grape skins being added to the wine that has already turned to alcohol. Only when this is done does it develop its intensive aromas.

Under the expert advice of international oenologists a thorough modernisation of viniculture was begun in the 1980s, leading to the designation of a second DOC region called Palmela in 1999. The region is now known for its excellent table wines: modern, fruity, mostly dry wines made of Chardonnay or Fernão Pires as well as medium-weight reds available everywhere from local Periquita, Espadeiro, Bonvedro and Tinta Miúda grapes. In addition, international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are being seen more and more frequently.

Paradisiacal Diversity
Northeast of Lisbon, the Ribatejo DOC region extends along the Tejo in Portugal’s agricultural heartland. Due to the mild climate, plenty of precipitation, a widely branched irrigation system and wide plains with fertile alluvial land fruits and vegetables thrive in virtually paradisiacal diversity and are characteristic of the face of the landscape. The rice terraces in the Tejo lowlands on the other hand, give an almost Asian impression. Ribatejo is one of Portugal’s major winegrowing regions. Its independent tradition is based primarily on fruity-earthy white wines with fine citrus aromas – made mostly of the Fernão Pires and Tália varietals, making up the largest part of production. However, the region’s reputation for excellent wines is owed to the red wines made from Castelão Nacional, Trincadeira Preta and Periquita grapes, which are exclusive to Portugal.

There’s a lot to discover, Vinho Verde, the awakening giant in the north or Alentejo, the sea of flowers in the south, Dão with its genuine charm or Douro, the home of port wine. Until the next visit to Portugal …

Further information about Portugal and Portuguese wine:
Worldtravels,  http://www.wordtravels.com/Travelguide/Countries/Portugal/Contacts

ViniPortugal, Rua Cândido dos Reis, 2560-312 Torres Vedras, Portugal,
Tel. 003 51/261/33 99 50, www.viniportugal.pt