In Germany they're called Krapfen, in Spain churros, in Austria Ausgezogene, in Greece loukoumades, in Russia pontschiki and in the United States donuts.

The difference in name from country to country reflects the difference in shape and the dough with which it is made. Depending on the country of origin, this may be choux, yeast, or curd cheese dough, while the shapes range from something resembling a flattened ball to an inflated rubber ring, a thick dough teardrop, a soft pillow and the imprint of a car tyre.

Each region also has its own answer as to whether the dough should be filled and, if so, what with. On offer are jam, vanilla cream, fresh or dried fruit, and even sauerkraut, caraway seeds and ham, as in the Allgäu region of Germany. The latter are certainly the exception, however, as on the whole, fried dough is sweet – and sometimes very sweet indeed.

But despite their differences, the tasty treats all have something in common – rather than being cooked in the oven, they are all fried for a couple of minutes in very hot fat (lard or vegetable oil).

While the ancient Romans would then cover their globuli (little balls) with honey and poppy seeds, Germans today top their Krapfen, Mutzen and Berliner with caster sugar, and the Dutch dust their oliebollen and smoutebollen with icing sugar. In the USA, donuts are often dipped in plain or chocolate icing and decorated with colourful sugar sprinkles.

Originally, fried dough was only eaten on special occasions, such as carnival, the start of Lent, or on New Year’s Eve. The Swiss with their Fasnachtskiechli (carnival cakes) and the Poles with their paczki, which are prepared on “fat Thursday” the week before Ash Wednesday, continue this tradition.

Similarly, Berliner Pfannkuchen are traditionally eaten at New Year and during carnival time. Jokers will often fill one or two of these with mustard or onions – rather than jam – which cannot be seen from the outside.

During the Jewish Festival of Lights (Hanukkah), celebrated every year in December, sufganiyot or sufganiyah are served warm – a delicious treat, as warm fried dough is simply irresistible.

Text: Rainer Meier