Whoever the first person was to hit on the idea of frying slices of cooked potato in a pan cannot be praised enough! In just a couple of steps he invented a cuisine classic that has become de rigueur for all cooks. Without them a few cold slices of roast beef or meat in delicious aspic would be like Sunday without the papers. Generations of farmers would have wasted away if they’d been sent out into the fields without their favourite breakfast. And without the gently aromatic company of sizzling, gleaming, golden brown fried potatoes spiked with diced bacon a herring would feel so lonely it might just as well never have left its shoal.

When it comes to such success stories – as is the fate of all classics, be it in art or cooking – it is only a matter of time before someone feels called upon to interpret and modify the recipe according to his own fancy. The results are well known. There are regal compositions as weighty as a Wagnerian opera which, once consumed, cast the eater into such a deep – and involuntary – inner trance that he even remains impervious to the doorbell ringing. Young rebels will also take a shot at it, will spontaneously jettison the role of the onions and replace them with thyme & co. in the hope of reaping applause from the Mediterranean gallery. Then there are all the amateurs who join the fray, who seriously believe that combining everything listed in the recipe book under “fried potatoes”, chucking this into whatever fat happens to be around and tossing it about in the pan with theatrical flourish is a sure bet to win the audience’s favour.

All these goings-on might be more or less justified given that research and experiment is as much needed in the culinary world as elsewhere, and had it not been for the centuries of altruistic dedication invested by resourceful bon viveurs in search of a little variety, our dinner tables today would be lacking in many a glorious culinary set piece.

When it comes to the good old fried potato, allow us just for once to assume the role of historical conservationists and warmly recommend to you, dear readers, the favourite recipe of the whole editorial department: target=_self>Roast beef with fried potatoes and remoulade. Bon appétit!