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Gugelhupf
Many legends have grown up around this cake, but one thing is certain: it is small, but perfectly formed.
Almost everyone in Germany and Austria knows and loves this moist cake, baked in the uniquely shaped tin. However, apart from this fact, many things about the Gugelhupf are unclear. There are several answers to the question of its origins. The precursors of today’s Gugelhupf date back to Roman times, which explains why the cake is so widespread.
After this it disappeared without trace until the 15th century, when the first recipes were written down. During this period, the traditional cake was seen as food for the poor, because its simple ingredients – eggs, butter, flour, yeast, milk and honey for sweetening – were available even to peasants.
The Gugelhupf underwent a renaissance during the Biedermeier period of the 19th century and became popular not only in Austria, but also in other countries. Its success was due in part to Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, who ate the cake for breakfast and allegedly ensured its popularity among the middle classes.
There are many stories about whether the Gugelhupf as we know it today originally came from Austria or France. One tale claims that the Archduchess of Austria and Queen of France, Marie Antoinette, took the cake with her to the royal court in Versailles.
According to another legend, the three wise men travelled through Alsace on their way home from Bethlehem and received a warm welcome there. In their gratitude they baked their hosts a cake, the Gugelhupf. This is why the Fête du Kougelhopf is held at the beginning of June every year in the town of Ribeauvillé in Alsace.
Interpretations of its shape and the meaning of its name are closely linked with the stories about its origins. Some people believe that the classic ring shape with its curved ribs and chimney-like opening in the centre symbolises the sun. Others say that it represents the spherical head coverings worn by medieval market women and that it therefore takes its name from the word “cuculla” (“Gugel”) which is Latin for “hood”. If you believe the story of the three wise bakers from the Orient, you may think that the cake is shaped like their turbans.
However, the simplest explanation is that the dough rises or bounces back (aufhüpfen in German) like a ball (Kugel). This is due to the yeast, which is one ingredient of the delicious Gugelhupf dough. In some regions, a sponge mixture is also popular. The remainder of the ingredients are down to taste. You can choose to have your Gugelhupf plain, with sugar, covered in chocolate, with a dash of rum or full of raisins and almonds. There is no limit to the number of different versions. This is unusual for a truly classic dish, but exceptionally good.
Text: Kim Leclaire