The French have a fantastic expression for tiny choux puffs: they call them profiteroles, which roughly translates as “small treat” or “small gift”. It sounds a little more tempting and tasty than the Swiss “Ofenküchlein” (small baked item) and Austrian “Brandteigkrapferl” (choux pastry donut) equivalents. The small, golf-ball sized bites of sugar-free pastry contain a great deal of hot air once they come out of the oven – and this is precisely where their appeal comes from. When cut horizontally, one half can be filled with whipped cream, vanilla cream or chocolate mousse, as with éclairs. The lid is then placed back on, and the sweet “small treat” is ready.

Napoleon is said to have made profiteroles famous in the 18th century in Italy, where they were given a covering of chocolate sauce, principally in Tuscany and Piedmont. Known as “profiteroli”, countless variations of the puffs are available in Italian bakeries.

Anyone with more of a savoury tooth can fill the profiteroles with fresh cheese or curd cheese (and fresh herbs), flavoursome pastes or ragouts (of game, veal or chicken), or a vegetable puree (e.g. avocado).