Condiments – a certain something
They are the final touch: sauces, pesto and chutneys, but pickled fruit too, can give even the plainest food a certain kick. As well as making original small gifts.
What would cold roast beef be like without remoulade? Roast beef, that’s all. Not bad, but the spicy herb mayonnaise is what lends the sliced cold meat a certain something. Or pesto? Even the plainest pasta becomes poetry when mixed with a sauce of basil, pine kernels, parmesan and olive oil. What about rouille, the garlic paste from the south of France? Without it bouillabaisse would be no more than an ordinary fish soup.
Whether sauce, chutney or relish, mostarda, tapenade or aromatic olive oil – these “condiments” will refine all manner of food, can make the mundane seem sublime. They are the true magicians of the kitchen because they unveil a dish’s individuality. Besides which, you can use as much of them as you like, varyingly spicy, sweet, sour or salty. Needless to say, we’re not referring to the jars, tubes and tins crammed with preservatives and artificial aromas anonymously filled on assembly lines of undefined origin. No, only if it’s home-made can one taste the love in the choice of ingredients, the passion invested in its preparation and the personality of the cook.
Personality finds expression in style. Someone wearing an Armani jacket over an ordinary pair of jeans has style. As does someone who serves fried sausages with home-made onion confiture. When frying you have to trust in the quality of the meat the butcher sells you, but not when it comes to your sauce. This is where you can give full rein to your imagination, lend expression to your personal style, experiment with herbs and spices, fruit, vegetables and wine. Take pesto, for instance: to make a classical Pesto Genovese you’d use basil and pine kernels, amongst others. Our suggestion: instead of basil try rocket, sage, estragon, marjoram, flat-leaf parsley or chervil, and rather than pine kernels why not use walnuts, almonds or hazelnuts?
Maybe you feel like the Rhineland cook Joachim Becher – locally his name is pronounced “besher” – who composed a white sauce based on the German maxim that an extra “besher mehl” (beaker of flour) can never go amiss. The sauce is called “béchamel”.