It is difficult not to rave about Marrakech. Even the most strait-laced of travellers is left enraptured by the views from the roof terrace across the Djemaa el Fna. The “Assembly of the Dead” as the square is known, is awash with a sea of people swirling in the golden light of the setting sun and gathering around storytellers, jugglers and traditional doctors. The sun has barely gone down before the food stalls take centre-stage. Chefs and their assistants act like extras in an opera, turning skewers on open-air barbeques, stirring soup in enormous pans, and holding out their arms to potential customers strolling by, all while swathes of delicate pink smoke perfume the air with the delectable scent of roasted meat.

The Djemaa el Fna is said to be the largest daily open-air food market in the world. It is testament to the lasting traditions of an ancient desert people, of eating and drinking together, and there is an abundance of beautifully flavoursome dishes. North African cuisine is certainly blessed in this respect. Morocco boasts incredibly diverse vegetation, with citrus fruits, figs, quinces, grapes, olives, nuts and melons all thriving in the plentiful sunshine, as well as vegetables, herbs and spices. A rich variety of fish and crustaceans are caught in the Atlantic, and thanks to a good road network and modern refrigeration systems, fresh seafood is served daily in the restaurants in Marrakech – some 300 kilometres from the coast.

Numerous restaurants have opened during the “Rose City’s” recent boom, several of which continue to be successful due to the consistent quality of their cooking and the creativity of their chefs. When it comes to Moroccan specialities, one name particularly stands out: “Al Fassia”, located in the Guéliz district, is one of the few traditional eateries to offer à-la-carte dishes rather than a single abundant (and extremely heavy on the stomach) 5-course set menu. The restaurant’s top dish is Mechoui, a leg of lamb slow-cooked in a clay oven, though this must be ordered in advance.

For Marrakech’s jet set, dining out is also about seeing and being seen. Anyone wanting to hang with the in-crowd – and who can put up with loud music over dinner – should head to “Bo-Zin” in the late evenings or at the weekend. “Asia meets North Africa” is the theme of the menu, which is why a “mixed selection of main courses” comes with, among others, Thai red curry with prawns and lobster tagine. “Crystal”, housed within the fortress-like “Pacha” complex, offers an ultra-stylish colonial art deco interior. Twins Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, who also own a restaurant in Montpellier with 3 Michelin stars, serve up the finest Mediterranean cuisine, and though it may be very expensive, the quality is outstanding.

The “Terrasse des Epices” is a tranquil little place situated in the tumultuous Medina of Marrakech. Offering tender, juicy grilled meat and fish beneath the stars, it is unique in the old town. If you’re in the mood to try a little culinary adventure at lunchtime, a tiny place situated on the Djemaa el Fna, to the left of the “Salon de Thé”, is the place to go. On one side, aromatic bunches of mint, vervain, parsley, thyme and much more are piled high alongside jars of pickled vegetables, while bronze amphorae hang opposite.

These are laid to rest in embers for an entire night before being used to make tangia, a peasant dish made from lamb, pickled lemons, ginger and saffron, which is then offered for sale. It is eaten with freshly baked flat bread on the spot. Irresistible smells drift out from the open shop beside the stall, where well-built men lift out half-joints of roasted mutton from the oven. This is the original mechoui. The vendors pick out the best bits and carve them into bite-sized pieces, before wrapping them in paper so that they can be eaten by hand. And if all that sounds a little overwhelming, everyone is welcome to at least observe the spectacle in what is an unforgettably authentic setting.


Text: Kiki Baron

Where To Go

La Mamounia, Avenue Bab Jdid, Tel. +212/524/38 86 00, www.mamounia.com/

Dar Les Cigognes, Rue de Berima, Tel. +212/524/38 27 40, www.lescigognes.com/

Ferme d’Hôte Akrich, Douar Akrich, Tel. +212/661/32 81 49, www.akrich.com/

Al Fassia, 55 Boulevard Zerktouni, Guéliz, Tel. +212/524/43 40 60, www.alfassia.com/

Bo-Zin, Douar Lahna, Route de l’Ourika 3,5 km, Tel. +212/524/38 80 12, www.bo-zin.com/

Crystal, Boulevard Mohammed VI, Tel. +212/524/388400, www.pachamarrakech.com/

Terrasse des Epices, 15 Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz, Tel. +212/524/37 59 04, www.terrassedesepices.com/

Grand Café de la Poste, Boulevard el-Mansour Eddahbi/Avenue Imam Malik, Tel. +212/524/43 30 38, www.grandcafedelaposte.com/

Pacha, Boulevard Mohammed VI, Tel. +212/524/38 84 00, www.pachamarrakech.com/